
When someone comes to me with a dog-behavior problem or question, my #1 question to them is : Are you walking your dog? If so, how much, how often, and for how long? If he’s “hyper” then you’re not walking him enough. Are you exercising (walking on leash and play time) your dog? If he’s spending a lot of time in a crate, and then just being let out and hanging around inside the house with the family, he’s not burning off any of that energy. . Regardless of age, all dogs need daily exercise. Your expectation should be that he will stay hyper and misbehaving “forever” unless you get him to burn off that energy, and set rules, boundaries and limitations. Many dogs in our country are bored. Dogs need stimulation and challenges, plus leadership. Timba, my 18 y/o Lab who was high-energy up until the very end — had to be walked 45 minutes a day, or she was bouncing off the walls. .The dog should be walked with you as his leader. If you have multiple dogs, the best thing to do is walk them as a "pack", with you as the leader of the pack. Just like humans, dogs were designed by nature to walk. The cardinal rule of dog ownership: A tired dog, is a good dog. If a dog is hyped up, jumping around, barking and carrying on, all that barking is the dog's way of trying to communicate with you: translation? “I am bored! Give me something to do!” You just have to practice, practice, practice. What this will result in is a relaxed, healthy, balanced dog, and both you and your dog will lose weight and be healthier. We have a big problem with obesity in this country. Get out there and walk your dog. If every human and every dog walked, like we were meant to do, there'd be no obese people and no obese dogs. You just need to practice, practice, practice! The dog will respect you for it, and you’ll be so much happier. And for those of us out there who are already walking our dogs: I can relate to the person who says they’re the only one in their area who walks their dog on a leash. Me too. I even get weird looks!! Everyone else lets them run loose. Ugh.
Cesar Millan calls it “mastering the walk.” Two quick pointers: put the choke collar right under the dogs ears, like “show dog” style (this will stop him from almost passing out from choking), and hold the leash “like carrying a purse”. There should be no tension in the leash. It takes a while to get the feel of this, but it can be done! My dogs outweigh me by 20 lbs, and I was able to do this with just a couple weeks worth of practice.
I’m a 140-lb woman with two dogs who outweigh me! Unfortunately, I’ve been dragged down on the ground too many times, and let them “walk” me to the point where people who knew me would see me afterwards and say I look like I’m driving a chariot! That was the funniest thing I ever heard, but it was like holding up a mirror. One day a man asked me, “are they walking you, or are you walking them?” Like he was the first person to ever ask me that -- oh, so original. I get that comment a lot. I usually just laugh (cause they’re walking ME ugh). But that day, I said, “A little of both!” I felt so triumphant! And this is because I practiced for weeks on end to get them to stop pulling me. They no longer pull (and neither do I, which is also part of the problem — the human pulls back). It is like a dream come true to be able to walk with slack leashes!
My dog, Hector, is not in the least bit aggressive — he just insists on meeting every dog, and he will drag me down on the ground to get to them. Both of my dogs are way too friendly and having far too much fun enjoying life. They feed off each other and insist on greeting every dog (and cat!) we see. If they know the dog, there is never a problem. If they’ve only seen the dog once or twice, or never, it’s a huge problem. I used to yell out “they’re ok!” to the other owner as they lunged at the other dogs. Now I just don’t say anything. The yelling makes my dogs think I’m “barking” and the other person/people don’t believe me when I say they’re ok anyway!
After a while of doing this, I realized that my problem was right in front of my face! Every day, I worry about what’s going to happen on our walk today. Who am I going to encounter that I'm going to piss off because I don't know what I'm doing!? I’m not living in the moment when I do that. I need to just try to have a good time, with positive energy and if something happens deal with it as best I can. After realizing this, on my morning walks (and getting ready for the walk) I changed my energy. The difference was incredibly amazing. I knew all along that my dogs pick up on my energy — for instance, if I can’t “decide” whether totake them for a ride to the store or on errands, theypick up on that indecisiveness and start bugging me totag along — even before I’ve picked up the keys or putmy coat on. I have never been able to figure out how they knew, until this morning when I tried to just becalm and cool on our walk. Because I live a very hecticlife (who doesn’t?) I am always in a hurry on our walks.Gotta get this done so I can get ready for work, etc. etc.They pick up on that and drag me up the road so fast that I can’t catch my breath, and I’m short so my legs hurt. Today, I made myself NOT think about what I needed to donext. I just said “I want to have fun again.” ( I had gotten Hobie 6 years ago in order to have a walkingcompanion, but after adding a second dog, it hasn’t been fun anymore — I’ve had sprains and strains, been dragged on the ground, all kinds of things!) Well, after making these small adjustments, the walks once again were fun. Shortly thereafter, I had a very triumphant walk one morning. We walked right by the loose dog who runs after us, and I just looked straight ahead and so did my dogs! In both directions!! No pulling, no dragging me on the ground! No barking, no yelling (me!) No greeting the other dog. We just ignored him. I was smiling from ear to floppy ear!!
Previous to this, I had tried everything to be able to take my dogs to the beach — every piece of equipment known to dogs! I have long ropes that I tie them out in the yard with, and I have brought them down to the beach on the long ropes, but they have dragged me down onto the sand and I’ve gotten broken bones and sprains, cuts, bruises especially my ego. Unfortunately, the only thing that works is bringing them there separately, but that’s no fun either I always feel bad! Our beach has a leash rule, so they have to be leashed, and because mine will pull my arms right out of the sockets practically, I’ve had to accidentally let go of the leash in order to save myself from being injured yet again — together the dogs outweigh me by 20 lbs. People get really angry at me. I can hold onto one dog, but I usually end up letting go of one. My dogs are really, really friendly, but they are so big that people get scared (understandably!) when they see them running at full speed. I always feel like such a jerk, and so ashamed that everyone else can control their dogs except me! But once I learned how to walk them the way I’d been practicing all winter, I was determined to walk down that beach without being pulled and without any problematic encounters. I knew enough not to stand there helpless yelling “NOOOO!!!!” at the top of my lungs, with everyone staring and my arms being pulled out of their sockets! If my dogs see another dog on our walks now, and want to get to it, I make them stop, look at me, and I say “relax” in a calm voice, and then we continue walking once they are relaxed. It works.
So, I figured I had to give it a try during my first spring weekend at the beach, and ... success! I took the dogs to the dog park/beach (leashes required) twice. I was able to walk down the 43 steps of the stairway with the dogs beside me, not dragging me down the stairs! (Yaaaaaayyy!!). The next day, there were two loose Labs (they “matched” mine — ha ha one was yellow, one black) and my dogs really wanted to run with them. I could’ve let them loose, because the rangers weren’t around and there were no other leashed dogs on the beach. But I said no, this is an opportunity to practice. Afterwards, I realized that the corrections and calm assertiveness came to me naturally! Woo hoo!! Hooray ME!! I didn’t panic at all. In the past, I have totally frozen, totally freaked out, sent the dogs bad, bad, negative energy and got all tensed up. It would end up that I had to let go of Hector and let him run loose in order to prevent me from being dragged. This time, he was making his “devil dog” sounds (I swear one day he is going to form words!) and I just made him stand there and I kept blocking his line of vision. I put the choke collar way up high on his neck and we walked toward the water while the other two dogs were all over the beach running wild. Hobie was very easy to correct. One correction, and then he was done freaking out. I am so proud of myself, I’ve been on cloud nine all day! (The last time I had been at the beach prior to this successful visit was the previous November — so I had been using buckle collars, and just screamed and yelled and let the dogs loose if they saw another dog) What a difference. I am completely in charge! It was awesome. I can’t wait to go back again! We can enjoy the beach with our dogs for the first time ever!
You have to work with what you’ve got as far as equipment goes, and try to welcome the unexpected challenge as a way to learn. If you’re letting your canine walk in front of you, or too far off to the side, then she is able to “greet” people/dogs. It’s really nice to have a friendly pup (my dogs are friendly too, but they are huge and people get scared). Always make sure you walk in front of your dog. Make her walk behind you, or you walk on the side where the people/dogs are (put yourself between her and the approaching dog/people) then she will get the message that she has to get permission to greet.
Tools of the trade
When we encounter another dog on the walks, both my dogs usually lunge at the other dog. Since I've been dragged down on the ground by them so many times, I learned that I have to use certain tools that some people may find unacceptable. The question of my safety came into play. I had no control over two dogs who outweigh me if I just used flat buckle collars and 6-foot leashes. I reverted back to choke collars, and learned how to use the properly. The name choke collar is a misnomer. My dogs never choke wearing them because I place the choke collar right under his ears "dog-show-style". I make sure the dogs are walking close at my side, instead of out in front of me.
I resolved to give it a try one morning. At first, I thought I would immediately take the dogs on two separate walks, but trying to separate these two first thing in the a.m. when they’ve “gotta go” is too stressful and complicated. So, I just made a really good effort to keep the choke collars really high on their necks behind their ears, and make them both walk beside me (with me in the middle, which is wrong I know but baby steps will get me there). By the end of our 45 minutes, they were walking beside me on the right side, though both took turns trying to be leader. I was sweating buckets by the time I got home — what a workout! The best part (who would’ve ever thought I’d say this??….) is that there are two new dogs in the neighborhood (every family here has at least one dog). They’d only met this Border Collie once before. Well, I turned around before we got to his house, but he saw us and followed us. None of us knew he was there because he didn’t have jingly stuff on his collar, and he sort of snuck up on us but he is really, really sweet. So, I was able to “practice” encountering a new dog, which was great. We all did quite well. Even me.
I recently read an article how to
get your dog to stop
pulling once and for all. I’ve been using choke collars
on my two dogs again after having put them away for a few years. I
used chokes and prongs when they were younger, too but
stopped because people always would stop me and question
why — why? so I wouldn’t get pulled down on the ground
and get broken ribs and wrists that’s why!) Anyhow, this
organization that publishes the newsletter does not condone
use of prong or choke collars. article said to use a flat, regular buckle
collar
and a 6-foot long leash, and let the dog walk in front of
you. This from a major pet organization! Now, when I
switched to the regular buckle collar and the 6-foot
leash about 2 years ago is when I started being pulled
down on the ground and injured repeatedly. This was every
time my dogs saw a strange dog — they are greeters — they
insist on greeting every dog. If they know the dog, they
are fine, no problems. If it’s a dog they’ve never met,
I’m in trouble. Back to the article, it said if the dog
starts pulling, stop and tell him to come back to you.
When he comes back, start walking again.
One day, shortly after reading that article, it was pouring rain here, and that
means our walk consists of staying on our street just
so that the dogs get the “routine” of exercise, and not
really exercise, exercise. They can also do their
business. I figured I would try just using their
regular collars that they’re always wearing (buckle
collars) and the 6-foot leashes which I use anyway, even
though usually I like to gather them up
so they’re about only a foot long and carry them like I'm carrying a purse
or briefcase. Hobie never pulls. The leash is
always slack. This article said that is your goal. They
seem to require that the dog be in front of you, which I
found astonishing!! Hector always pulls. So, on
our very short walk on our own street with no other dogs around, I tried
this method. Every time Hector
pulled I would stop, ask him to come back to me, and then
start again. Within two minutes, he was walking with a
slack leash. By the end of our walk, the two of them.
Interesting that both methods worked within just a few minutes. I also realized
that, because I wasn’t anticipating meeting up with any
loose canines, I was much more relaxed. That could have been the whole
explanation, in fact. When I read that article, I was in
disbelief that something like that should be published
(they also advocate major, big time use of treats in all
training). That could explain why we see so many people
walking with their dogs in front of them. It seems like this is the standard
method of training, according to that publication. After I read that
article, I posted a question on a popular dog-blog "should I be concerned if my
dog walks
in front of me, even though his leash is always slack?
People replied that he should never walk in front of me.
I hardly have any problems with him, unless I’m walking
both dogs and then they tend to “feed” off each other’s energy. Hector always has to be beside me
because he drags me down on the ground. I feel better
about letting the Hobie go in front once in a while. My point in all
of this is that you should use whatever techniques work for you and your
canine companion. Don't go "all or nothing". Combine
positive-reinforcement with Dog Whisperer-type techniques, with treats, and
clicker training or whatever else works for you.
In my opinion, a retractable leash is not a good tool to use because you have little or no control over the animal when using it. Based on my personal experience, it is the worst invention ever made! I got 3 broken ribs from being dragged down on the ground while I was holding onto the stupid retractable w/both hands, and the dog had it pulled to its limit running after a cat. Stupid me, I should’ve let go, but I kept remembering reading the pamphlet that comes with it and how if the thing snaps back you could get injured by it. I was so concerned about that happening, it never occurred to me I’d fall down and break bones! People who own small dogs should continue using the retractable, but I personally don’t think they’re a good tool to use based on my experience with large dogs.
Another trick I use is to try not to look at the approaching dog, or cat because I found out that by doing that I was sending a signal to my dogs sort of “pointing” at the dog (or cat). I try just looking somewhere else, and that works a bit. One thing I noticed I was doing is “fixating” on the other dog or cat. In turn, both of my dogs would also “fixate” on the other animal, and then I was in trouble. I would get pulled down on the ground, dragged, cracked, sprained and broken bones. What I do now are three basic things, that I have been practicing every day for about 6 months (yes, it does take time). The three things are this: 1) I look away from the approaching dog or cat. I look anywhere else other than at that animal! That results in my dogs also not looking at the other animal. 2) I stand in front of my dogs’ line of vision so they cannot see the other animal. If they try to go around my legs, I step into their line of vision again. I do this repeatedly until they’ve stopped lunging and being excited. 3) I say, out loud, very quietly, “relaaaax”. I only say it once, maybe twice. It has the benefit of acting like a “command” to the dogs, telling them to relax, and the extra added benefit of telling myself to relax too!
A common problem is excited dogs inside of cars. We've all been stopped at the red light, next to a car with a dog in it, and the dog starts going crazy barking at anything and everything it sees from its perch at the car windows. This is not only annoying, it can also be dangerous. Some dogs are not excited in this way, but are nervous riding in cars. They may howl, or even become nauseous, dizzy or vomit. Have you tried walking for 10 - 20 minutes before the car ride? Works like a charm! I never used to do it, and I would find myself asking, “Why are these rides always SO STRESSFUL?!????!” Then I heard the suggestion that the dog get a walk before getting in the car. I tried it once, and it cut the stress ten-fold. I now never go for rides ever until I’ve taken the dogs for a walk first. After trying this technique a couple times, the big test was when we drove 4 hours to our vacation home, and they were perfect in the car the whole way (even stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic !!) This strategy also applies to the dog throwing up in the car, etc. be sure to walk your dogs first, before they get in the car at any time. 10-20 minutes walk, and then give them a little water to cool them down, and then they go into the car for a ride. This will calm them down and they’ll be better able to handle the ride. The vomiting in the car is probably because of excitement, nervousness and an equilibrium issue like carsickness/seasickness in humans. Walking the dog first will alleviate some of that.
I
also believe no pet should have to be onprescription drugs to calm them down. Some dogs are fearful because of
unpleasant experiences in their pasts. Make sure you are
walking the dog, on a leash, at least 45 minutes a day. Ifyou can’t control him on leash, you need to have aprofessional trainer teach you how. The exercise willautomatically calm him down, thus eliminating the need fortranquilizers. Also, if you express fear in front of him,
he picks up on that immediately. Try to “act as if” youare not afraid. It really works. Stop feeling sorry forwhat he went through in the past. Stay in the moment. The dog does not dwell on what happened to him before, and by
feeling sorry for him all the time, you are projecting that negative energy
on him and letting him get away with bad behaviour.
Feed me, Seymour!
Dogs need ROUTINE. After
our walks, I always feed my dogs right away (I eat a little something first,
to reinforce my role as pack leader).. If I don’t follow this routine to the
letter,
the dogs become confused and start to misbehave. They need structure and routine, so if
you’re just doing “whatever” after the walk, then he’s
wondering what’s going to come next. On days when you
can’t do a long walk (longer is better) make sure the short
walk is followed by the same strict routine no matter
what. If you just “go through the motions” on those days
when you’re too busy, or the weather is bad, it generally
works to keep them calm and submissive.
You can let the dog walk in front of you once in a while. I’ve been using these
techniques and it works great — it’s like a little
reward for the dogs when they get to walk ahead of mefor a minute or two. Hold the
leash “like a briefcase” loose and confident.. Keep that in mind, and don’t hold your
hands up high — hold them down at your side, shorten or coil up the leash if
you have to. One thing that
was like a lightbulb going off in my head was when I
finally realized what was meant by “mastering” the
walk. The only way you can master anything is by
practicing (think Tiger Woods, or Elton John!) so keep
practicing and eventually I guarantee you it will be so
much easier. If you’ve ever taken martial arts or yoga
classes or anything where you have to focus and breathe
Use that when you start to feel tense. I stop, take a deep yoga-esque
breath, and then say to myself (not out loud!) “Caaaalm” or “Relaaaax” and
then when I’ve calmed down, I will keep walking. If the dogs get excited
about another animal or something, I do the same thing, but I make them look
at me and I say to them “Relax”.
Above all, enjoy yourself -- this is quality time with your dog!
All original material copyright © Kathleen S. Mueller. All rights reserved.